Why Portugal? Why Braga?

You may be wondering, of all the places in the wide, wild, world, how did we end-up in Braga? While Portugal tops the list of international destinations for U.S. retirees and digital nomads, Braga is not usually the first Portuguese city mentioned. Years ago, Jack and I were both attracted to Portugal for a mix of sentimental and practical reasons. Finding the right city for us took a bit more time and soul-searching. You might call it the most enjoyable research project ever.

Jack and I first visited Portugal in the year 2000. Then in our early 30s, we were drawn by my family roots and the relaxed, healthy, Mediterranean lifestyle. As a travel destination, it seemed relatively undiscovered by American travelers (none of our well-traveled friends had been to the Azores or even Lisbon) and it felt special and remote. We dreamed of living there one day when were less consumed by career and family responsibilities.

 

When we vacationed in Portugal more than twenty years later, we had just become empty-nesters and were approaching eligibility for pensions and retirement fund income. With the realization that our work and family ties to Idaho were loosening, we could begin to imagine ourselves starting a life that had felt like only a fantasy when we were younger. As usual, we were late for the party. By that time, Portugal was already on the map as a place for North Americans to retire because of the warm climate, affordable and high quality health care, safety, and an accessible passive income visa. We were surprised to hear how many others shared our dream, but it was reassuring to find that our goal of moving to Portugal just might be achievable.

We explored each locale with a new mindset. Could we live here? Not a faraway someday, but maybe within the next few years? We first considered the biggest cities of Lisbon and Porto but found that the character of those cities had changed a lot since our first visit in 2000. They were certainly lively and cosmopolitan but also crowded with cars, motorized tuk-tuks, and young hipsters speaking English with varied foreign accents. The population boom resulted in those well-known cities being less affordable, too. The stressors of these changes to the native population were becoming apparent by the number of Alojamento Locale (nightly and short term rental) signs on private residential buildings and by the wary expressions of shop employees while serving their mostly English speaking clientele. Jack turned to me a few days into our Porto visit and voiced what I was thinking. “This is a great city but I can't really see myself living here.” On a whim, we took the train from Porto to Braga for a day trip. We heard from other travelers that Braga was a smaller historical city that has retained its authentic Portuguese character. After a 40-minute train ride, we exited the station and followed a path uphill toward an ancient stone arch that ushers day-trippers into the medieval city. Right away, we found the lush flower gardens, Baroque churches, and walkable cobblestone streets to be a match for our image of southern European life. Cafes were full of families and sharply dressed business folks. University students, dressed in traditional black-cloaked uniforms, chatted on carved stone park benches. Unlike the major cities where most inhabitants speak at least a little English, Portuguese is still the de facto language in Braga. Long-term housing is plentiful and affordable compared to European capitols and big tourist hubs.

                               

Conducting highly scientific research near Sete Cidades, Azores 

Azorean island life. Glad we live close enough to visit often

 The Santa Justa Lift was built by a disciple of Gustave Eiffel to help traverse Lisbon's steep hills

                                  

Pena Palace has throngs of tourists, even off-season

While I held on to the fantasy of moving to my ancestral home in the subtropical Azores, I feared that the isolation of island living would not satisfy us in reality. After brief visits to other regions of Portugal, Braga emerged as a strong contender for a place we could stay long-term. We returned home to conduct more research via YouTube videos, podcasts, news articles, and the occasional old-fashioned library book. Braga is touted as a haven for retired expats and a convenient home base for travelers who want to hop to other European countries or even northern Africa. The main drawbacks we heard about (mainly rainy winters, Portuguese language dominance, and distance from the Algarve beach scene) did not dissuade us and in fact, may have actually confirmed our feeling that Braga might be right for us. After all, we had been happy in the past living with San Francisco fog and through Idaho's seasonal extremes. We have previously experienced coastal living and now appreciate beaches only in small doses. I figured I would learn the language faster if I could not easily default to English as happens in major multicultural cities like Lisbon and Porto. Plus, the size of Braga felt just right. The population of 200,000 puts it among Portugal's largest metropolitan areas. However, it has a bustling historical center that has stayed true to the town's medieval origins. I have heard YouTubers call it a “small town disguised as a city.” It is small enough to see familiar faces every day and compact enough to easily walk around the Centro. At the same time, it has amenities we enjoy like good restaurants, outdoor cafes, an open-air market, local sports arenas, live music, highly rated hospitals, quality pet care, and respected universities.

Not Hogwarts cosplay...university students dress in uniform on ordinary school days

                                                                              

Theatro Circo is the place for dance, music, and stage performances in Braga          

                                                                                

It's easy to miss Braga's sprawling, modern developments just outside the Centro

So, we chose Braga as our landing spot, reminding each other that we could always move to another part of Portugal once we had a chance to discover new corners of the country. For now, we are renting an apartment here, which allows us to keep our options open. But as we settle into new routines and make friends here, it seems even more clear that Braga is the right place for us. So far, we have survived a sweltering and smoky summer, Christmas without eggnog, record setting rains this winter, and the hardest thing of all, distance from loved ones back in the U.S. We have discovered new pastimes that challenge us. We have met interesting people from all over the world and have been welcomed into a community which invites us to show-up, share, and serve. That gives life meaning in a way I could never have predicted when we planned this adventure. As spring arrives, we are planning some warm-weather trips and are excitedly preparing for visits from American family and friends. A few weeks ago, we welcomed our dear friends visiting from Boise and that gave us a chance to step back and see our new town with fresh eyes. This is Portugal. This is Braga. Isn't it lovely?